Wine Review: Lighter red wines

Like red wine, but heavier varieties don't suit you? Here are some (very drinkable) answers

(L-R): Tesco Finest Frappato 2012; Louis Tête Chiroubles 2012; Waimea Pinot Noir 2011
(L-R): Tesco Finest Frappato 2012; Louis Tête Chiroubles 2012; Waimea Pinot Noir 2011

An admission from your not-so-hardened wine writer: I never drink more than one glass of rich red wine, however delicious. I can't say the same for my more copious intake of lighter reds, white and fizz, so this is no matter of virtue, just that heavier reds quickly give me a headache and can even affect my stomach. It seems I am slightly intolerant of tannins, and I'm not alone, to judge from the many requests I get to recommend lighter styles.

Tannins are the plant compounds that are pressed out mainly from the skins, but also the stems and seeds, of red grapes to give much of the structure, density and even chewiness to full-bodied reds (oak barrels, especially new ones, add yet more tannins).

To avoid tannic wines, it makes sense to drink reds made from varieties with more delicate skins. Pinot noir is champion here – a thin-skinned grape that delivers relatively light, fresh, low-tannin reds. I've even known those who swear they never drink red to fall under the spell of pinot's easy, supple texture and gorgeous juicy red fruit.

Another grape that gives us smoother, lower-tannin reds is gamay, the variety behind beaujolais. Bear in mind that some beaujolais is richer than others: basic beaujolais is very simple stuff; that labelled Beaujolais-Villages a little more concentrated but rarely rich; and the more refined, named crus range from the prettily scented and delicate Chiroubles through the fruity Fleurie and Chénas to the meatier, more tannic Moulin à Vent. I'll take a lighter one when I want more than one glass.

TRY THESE...

Finest Frappato 2012 Sicily, Italy (Tesco, £7.99)

Certain Italian reds can be low tannin too. This is vibrantly fruity and youthful with refreshing raspberry fruit. Nicer for a very light chill.

Louis Tête Chiroubles 2012 Beaujolais, France (Marks & Spencer, £11.99)

A plum-perfumed beaujolais with the juicy flavours of a summer pudding but with a dry, mouth-watering finish. Match with smooth chicken-liver pâté and toast.

Waimea Pinot Noir 2011 Nelson, New Zealand (Majestic, £14.99, down to £11.99 each for more than one until 28 April)

Big on alcohol (13.5 per cent), but not on harsh tannins, this delectably soft and easy-going red has a strawberry aroma and black-cherry tang. One for duck.

TIPPLE TIP new broom...

The Whisky Manual by Dave Broom, out on 3 March 2014, is an entertaining but expert guide to an ever-popular spirit. The emphasis is on how to enjoy it, with notes on blended whiskies, international labels and cocktails. A less macho whisky book than many. Mitchell Beazley, £14.99